Italy, Unpacked

Cath's Take Your passport needs at least six months of validity from your date of travel — not just from when you leave, but from the entire duration of your trip. I've seen travelers get turned away at the gate. Don't let that be you. Go check it this week.

Cath's Take Great news for US, UK, Canadian, and Australian passport holders: no visa required for Italy. You're good to go. Most of Western Europe operates the same way — so if this is your first European trip, just make sure your passport is valid and you're set.

Cath's Take I cannot stress this enough. Italy's most beautiful places — historic centers, hilltop towns, cobblestone piazzas — are not accessible by car. You will walk. A lot. And the cobblestones are uneven and ancient. Save the cute sandals for dinner. Your feet will thank you.

Cath's Take Italy has some of the world's most spectacular churches — and strict dress codes to match. No bare shoulders, no bare knees, no exposed midriffs. They will turn you away at the door. My rule: bring a pashmina scarf in your day bag every day, not just when you're planning to visit a church. You never know when you'll walk past one and want to go in, and Italian churches are free to enter, often dark and beautifully cool inside on a hot day. The pashmina weighs nothing and solves the problem instantly.

Cath's Take The Italian sun is serious, especially in summer. You'll be outdoors for hours — in open piazzas, at ruins, on hilltops. Apply sunscreen in the morning, and bring more for reapplication because it sweats off by midday. A wide-brim hat is your best friend and honestly, a chic travel accessory at the same time.

Cath's Take Even in summer, Italy can throw a surprise afternoon shower at you. A compact fold-up umbrella or a packable rain jacket takes up minimal space and saves a day of sightseeing. Coastal areas especially are prone to quick, passing storms.

Cath's Take This sounds unusual until you're actually standing in the Sistine Chapel craning your neck. Michelangelo painted the ceiling — the detail is extraordinary and it's all the way up. A small pair of compact binoculars is genuinely transformative in there. This is the one I tell everyone who's headed to Rome.

Cath's Take Italy runs on 230 volts / 50Hz and uses two round pin plugs. American plugs will not work without an adapter. What makes it more complicated is that within a single Italian hotel room, you can encounter multiple outlet styles. I recommend a universal multi-plug adapter (one per person) and, as backup insurance, a cheap Italy-specific adapter set. About $5 for the set — worth every cent.

Cath's Take I know, I know — it seems like something that'll never matter. Until it does. Medical evacuation from Italy alone can cost tens of thousands of dollars without coverage. Make sure your policy includes that specifically. Bring a printed copy of your policy documents with you. It's the one thing you'll hope you never need.

Cath's Take This is non-negotiable for me. Put an Apple AirTag in each piece of checked luggage — if a bag goes missing, you can see exactly where it is from your phone before the airline even figures it out. I also keep one in my travel wallet with my passport. For about $25 a tag, it's the cheapest peace of mind you'll buy for this trip.

Cath's Take Before you board your flight, activate your carrier's international travel plan. Most major carriers offer a daily add-on (often around $10/day/line) that gives you full data and calling while abroad. Do this before you leave — not when you land and realize you have no signal. Having data on your phone in Italy is not a luxury; it's how you navigate, translate, and find things.

Cath's Take The easiest and best-rate way to get Euros is to use an Italian ATM and withdraw directly from your own bank account — it pops out in Euro. Do NOT use the standalone currency exchange machines that pop up near tourist sites; they have terrible rates. You can also purchase Euros from your bank before you leave home if you prefer to have cash on arrival. Check with your bank or ATM card company beforehand about any foreign withdrawal fees.

Cath's Take You'll land in Italy in the morning, Italy time — but your body thinks it's the middle of the night. You have two options. Option 1: Have a coffee when you arrive and force yourself to stay awake until after dinner, then crash. Option 2: Take a short 1–2 hour nap when you get tired — but you must wake up before the sun sets. Get some daylight, make dinner plans, eat, and go to bed at a normal local time. If you sleep until you're no longer tired, you'll be up all night. Neither option is wrong. Pick your strategy and commit to it.

Cath's Take Download Google Translate and its Italian offline dictionary before you leave home. The offline version works without data or wifi — critical when you're in a small town or underground somewhere. The camera translation feature is particularly magical: point it at a menu, a sign, anything written in Italian, and it translates in real time. Use it constantly. It will save you many times.

Cath's Take This is the one that gets people. ZTL stands for Zona Traffico Limitato — restricted traffic zones in city centers and small towns. Drive through one, and your license plate gets photographed. A fine of €100 or more arrives in the mail weeks later — for each offense. Your GPS will not always warn you. Research ZTL zones for every city you're driving through before you arrive.

Cath's Take This applies everywhere in Italy, but especially in popular tourist areas. A camera bag on the seat, a jacket, even a water bottle can attract a break-in. Everything goes in the trunk — and ideally, take valuables with you entirely. This is not being paranoid. This is being a smart traveler.

Cath's Take A few things that will surprise American drivers: there are no right turns on red. Seatbelts are mandatory. Keep your headlights on outside of urban areas at all times. Motor scooters weave unpredictably — expect it. Rural roads are narrow, often have no guardrails, and speed limits change constantly. The Autostrada (highway) has fast drivers who pass aggressively. Stay right unless you're passing.

Cath's Take On highways, you can pay tolls by credit card — look for the CARTE lanes and avoid the Telepass lanes (those are for locals with a transponder). For parking, bring Euro coins. Most parking machines do not take credit cards. Always have coins. Gas stations also frequently don't have ATMs, so don't count on fueling up to also get cash.

Cath's Take Even at an unattended station, you can usually self-serve. The vocabulary you need: Chiuso = closed, Aperto = open, Fai da Te = self service, Servito = full service (attendant, a bit more expensive but helpful). Want a fill-up? Say "il pieno per piacere." Diesel is Gasolio; unleaded is Senza Piombo. Also: payment machines sometimes shut down late at night, so have cash as backup.

Cath's Take Unlike New York or London, you cannot flag down a taxi on the street in Italy. If you need one, go to a designated taxi stand (look for the TAXI sign), or ask your hotel or restaurant to call one for you — they'll do this happily and it's the normal way. Italian taxis are safe, drivers use the meter, and they accept credit cards. If a driver gives you trouble at the end of the ride, calmly ask for their taxi number and company information to report them. In my years of traveling in Italy I've never had a bad taxi experience — but it's good to know your rights.

Cath's Take This trips up Americans every single time. In Italy, the ground floor is called Piano Terra (abbreviated PT) — and Floor 1 is what we'd call the second floor. So if your room is on Floor 1, you go up one flight. The elevator button for the ground floor will say PT or 0, not 1. This also matters for building exits — you cannot exit a building from Floor 1. Keep this in mind when checking in and navigating your hotel.

Cath's Take Venice has no cars. None. You get around on foot and by boat — specifically the vaporetto, Venice's public water bus. It's affordable, runs frequently, and connects the entire city. Get a multi-day pass when you arrive — it saves money and stress. Google Maps works beautifully for vaporetto directions, which still amazes me.

Cath's Take Venice floods. It's called acqua alta — high water — and it's a real part of life there, especially in fall and winter around Piazza San Marco. When it happens, the city puts out elevated wooden walkways. It's actually kind of fascinating to experience, not a reason to avoid going. Just pack waterproof shoes if you're visiting October through February.

Cath's Take Venice now requires day visitors to have an entry permit — the Contributo di Accesso. This is handled for you as part of your trip, so you'll have a voucher with a personal code. Keep it on your phone or print it. It's personal and non-transferable, so if you're traveling with others, each person should have their own copy accessible — especially if your group splits up at any point during the day.

Cath's Take In Italy, if you're stopped while driving, you're expected to pay the fine on the spot — in cash, in local currency. If you can't pay, local police can confiscate your rental car. This is not the time to argue or ask to mail a check. Keep some cash accessible and keep your rental paperwork in the car.

Cath's Take Italy has its own coffee culture that has nothing to do with a Starbucks Frappuccino. Espresso is consumed standing at the bar, quickly, at any hour. A caffè is a straight espresso. A cappuccino is a morning drink — Italians do not order cappuccinos after noon. Iced coffee as Americans know it does not really exist here. Lean in, order at the bar like a local, and your morning ritual will never be the same.

Cath's Take The gelato in Florence is considered Italy's finest — but you can waste your time on bad gelato if you don't know what to look for. Here's the test: if it's piled high in a mountain and decorated with fruit, it's bad — made with a mix and whipped to stand tall. If the colors are unnaturally bright, it's bad. Good gelato is made in-house, stored in small containers, ideally with a lid. The banana flavor should look greyish, not cartoon yellow.

Cath's Take My go-to spots in Florence: Gelateria Vivoli (a true Florence original), Gelateria dei Neri (incredible variety), Grom (technically a chain but genuinely excellent), and Gelato Santa Trinita on Piazza Frescobaldi. And if you make it to San Gimignano? Don't miss the gelato shop the hotel will point you to — it has actually won the world championship. That's a real thing.

Cath's Take Italian dining has a structure, and it's worth understanding. It goes: antipasto (starter), primo (first course — pasta or risotto), secondo (main — meat or fish), dolce (dessert). You don't have to order every course, but don't be surprised if a meal takes two hours. That's the point. Sit, eat slowly, sip the wine. Italy is not a country that rushes through dinner.

Cath's Take You do not tip 20% in Italy. Here's the actual guide: Sit-down restaurant — leave 5–10% in cash on the table when you leave. Most places have no tip line on the credit card receipt, and even if they do, that money won't reach the staff. Cash only. Bar (coffee or drinks) — 10–20 cents for a coffee; about €1 for a round of drinks. Taxi — just round up to the nearest Euro. Hotel porters — €1 per bag; let them show you the room and how everything works, that's part of their job. Housekeeping — €1–2 per night in a nice hotel. Tour guides — €10–20 for a 2–4 hour tour; €50 for a full day. Tips make up a large part of guide income in Europe, so this matters. Also on your restaurant bill: the coperto is a per-person cover charge (usually €1–3) and the servizio is a flat 10% service charge. Both are normal. Neither is a scam.

Cath's Take If you ask for water in Italy, you'll get a blank stare — or a very expensive bottle of sparkling water you didn't want. Always specify: acqua naturale for still, acqua frizzante for sparkling. There is usually a small charge for water at restaurants. This is normal. It is not a scam.

Cath's Take For a quick, incredible lunch that won't slow you down: All'Antico Vinaio on Via De' Neri — the line moves fast, and the porchetta sandwich is legendary. For a sit-down meal: Il Barroccio for solid Tuscan food in the heart of the medieval streets, or Osteria dei Benci — try the drunken spaghetti. If you want to escape the tourist center, head across the river to Piazza Santo Spirito and Gusto Osteria.

Cath's Take If you make it to Siena, stop at Nannini on Via Banchi di Sopra for panforte — a dense, honeyed cake with nuts and fruit that is basically Siena in pastry form. Pick some up to bring home. For lunch, Osteria la Chiacchera near San Domenico is inexpensive, authentic Tuscan, and perfect for a midday refuel. Trattoria La Torre has an open kitchen — always a good sign — with pastas starting around 7 euro.

Cath's Take Italy's highway rest stops, called Autogrill, are nothing like American gas station food. Italians care so much about what they eat that even their roadside panini are genuinely delicious. Same goes for airport shops — don't be put off by paninis stacked out in the open. They'll heat them for you, and they're among the best sandwiches you'll have on the trip. A quick note on grammar while we're here: panini is plural. The singular is un panino. Using this correctly will make any Italian smile.

Cath's Take Any time, anywhere you see a market popping up with stalls — go. The people are friendly and you can browse freely. You can do some friendly bartering with vendors selling souvenirs and crafts, but not for produce or fresh food. Some of my most memorable Italy moments have happened in impromptu markets I stumbled into. Don't walk past them.

Cath's Take Rome has hundreds of small cast-iron drinking fountains called nasoni — "big noses" — scattered throughout the city, and they run clean, cold, fresh water 24 hours a day. Most tourists walk right past them. Fill up a reusable bottle, stay hydrated, and stop paying €3 for water at every café. Just cover the spout with your finger and it turns into a drinking fountain. It's one of those small Rome things that makes you feel like a local.

Cath's Take Rome has four legendary pasta sauces — gricia, amatriciana, carbonara, and cacio e pepe — and each one has a history and a correct version that Romans will defend passionately. You'll find bad versions everywhere tourists go. Seek out spots away from the major monuments and ask locals. The pizza, too, is distinct: Roman pizza is thin and crispy, not Neapolitan. And if you see pizza al taglio (by the slice), stop.

Cath's Take The Accademia Gallery is famous for one reason: David. The 14-foot, 500-year-old sculpture is one of those rare things that earns every bit of its reputation — whether you know a thing about art or not. You will be standing there trying to understand how a human being made this. Book timed-entry tickets online before you go. The line without a reservation can be brutal, and this is not the thing to miss.

Cath's Take One of Europe's great art museums — Botticelli, Raphael, da Vinci, della Francesca all under one roof. Built in 1590 as magistrates' offices (Uffizi means "offices" — now you have a dinner party fact). Book timed-entry tickets online, or check for same-day availability at the ticket office. Open 8:15–18:50, closed Mondays. Entry is €8, plus €4 to reserve online. Worth it.

Cath's Take Brunelleschi's dome is one of the great architectural wonders of the world — and it's actually more impressive from the outside and from the ground floor looking up than it is from climbing inside it. The dome climb is hot, cramped, and crowded. If you love that kind of thing, go for it. Otherwise, walk through the ground level, look up at the ceiling, then step outside and appreciate what you're seeing. The bell tower next door is a nicer climb with better views.

Cath's Take The Ponte Vecchio ("Old Bridge") is the only bridge in Florence that survived WWII and it's lined, famously, with gold and jewelry shops. Fascinating history, beautiful photo opportunity. But don't buy gold on the bridge — it's very overpriced compared to everywhere else in Florence. Take the photo, absorb the history, then shop elsewhere.

Cath's Take The Vatican Museums, Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter's Basilica are three separate experiences that each deserve real time. Most people rush through because they underestimate the scale. The Sistine Chapel ceiling takes time to absorb. St. Peter's is genuinely overwhelming in its grandeur. Come early, book tickets in advance, bring binoculars for the Sistine Chapel ceiling, and budget a full morning or afternoon minimum.

Cath's Take The Colosseum and the Forum are unmissable — but some of the best Rome experiences happen when you wander away from the monuments into neighborhoods like Trastevere, Prati, or Testaccio. These are where Romans actually live and eat. The pizza at Pizzarium (in Quartiere Trionfale, away from the center) is among the finest in the world. Worth the detour.

Cath's Take St. Mark's is one of the most extraordinary interiors in the world, covered almost entirely in 12th century mosaics. Most people walk in, look around for five minutes, and walk out. Don't do that. Stand in each section of the church and look up. The stories being told in those mosaics took centuries to create. Let yourself get lost in them for a while.

Cath's Take If you have even one day to get out of Florence, spend it in Siena and San Gimignano. Siena's main square — the Piazza del Campo — is one of the most beautiful public spaces in Europe, shaped like a fan and still used for the famous Palio horse race in July and August. San Gimignano is the "Manhattan of Tuscany" — once home to 72 towers that proved wealth, 12 of which still stand. Both are profoundly medieval, profoundly beautiful, and easily reached by car or bus.

Cath's Take Rome, Florence, and Venice are extraordinary. But Italy has so much more — Calabria in the south, Sicily, Puglia, the Amalfi Coast, Cosenza (which has been called "the Athens of Calabria"), Eastern Sicily with its Greek temples, the hill towns of Umbria. Your second Italy trip exists to go deeper. If you have even a day beyond the main cities, take it. You will discover a country most visitors never see.

Cath's Take This is not a scare tactic — it's a real thing that happens to real travelers. Keep your passport, tickets, and valuables in the hotel safe or room safe. In the city, use a crossbody bag worn in front, or a money belt. Crowded tourist spots, the Metro in Rome, and busy piazzas are where it happens. Be most vigilant in crowds.

Cath's Take Scammers often work in pairs or groups and are frequently very charming. If someone approaches you on the street — even someone who appears to be a child or an elderly person — be skeptical of requests for money, offers to show you around, or anyone putting something in your hands (a flower, a bracelet). Don't leave your belongings unattended at outdoor restaurant tables. Trust your instincts.

Cath's Take Many churches in Italy — including some of the most famous ones — prohibit photography inside, or prohibit flash photography specifically. Look for posted signs and ask if you're unsure. It's also just respectful: these are active places of worship, not just photo opportunities. A quick glance around to follow what others are doing goes a long way.

Cath's Take Save these in your phone before you travel: Police — 113. Fire — 115. Ambulance — 118. If you've been cheated or robbed, the Finance Police number is 117. The country code to dial into Italy is +39. Most embassies are located in Rome — know where yours is before you need it.

Cath's Take The riposo is Italy's midday closing — typically from around 1pm to 4pm — and it catches first-timers off guard every single time. Shops lock up, some restaurants stop serving, and even some smaller churches go dark. It varies by city (it's more strictly observed in smaller towns than in Rome or Florence), but plan around it. Use those hours for a long lunch, a rest, or a gelato stroll rather than trying to shop or sightsee.

Cath's Take The passeggiata is the Italian evening stroll — a centuries-old tradition where everyone comes out after dinner to walk, see friends, and be seen. It happens on the main pedestrian streets of every Italian city and town, from Cosenza's Corso Mazzini to the streets of Siena. If you want to feel Italian for an evening, skip the tourist restaurant at 6pm, rest until 8, then wander out for a Spritz and join the flow. This is Italy at its most itself.

Cath's Take At the end of the day, you're a stranger in a strange land. Italians are warm and hospitable — genuinely some of the most welcoming people in the world. But there are good and bad people everywhere. Don't wear all your jewelry out sightseeing. Don't flash your phone or camera unnecessarily. Don't accept unsolicited offers from strangers, and if something sounds too good to be true, it is. Trust your instincts. Enjoy everything Italy has to offer, but keep your wits about you.

Cath's Take Every church in Italy is beautiful and each one has its own character — no two are alike. And almost all of them are free to enter. On a hot Italian afternoon, ducking into a church is one of the great pleasures: it's dark, cool, quiet, and filled with extraordinary art and architecture that most people walk right past. In some cases you'll see a small donation requested to access a particular chapel or area — a euro or two is completely appropriate. Keep your pashmina in your bag, keep the entrance free in your mental itinerary, and step in whenever you see one that interests you.

Cath's Take Italian traffic follows its own logic. Traffic lights are limited and sometimes treated as suggestions. Scooters come from unexpected directions. As a pedestrian, always look for a marked crosswalk, and when you step into the street, be confident about it — hesitating in the middle is more dangerous than committing. As a driver, be assertive but not aggressive.